Video by Homie Hektor. re-published with permission.
- Get a whole new pump assembly, not just the new pump
- Lift up the seat
- Lift up the carpet
- Remove the old pump carefully (don't crack the plastic)
- Check that new part matches old part
- Re-install the new part carefully (don't crack the plastic)
- Prime the pump and then test drive the vehicle
- If you get a check engine light (P0455 or P0405, double check that you put the new O-ring in)
"Yo, what's going on guys. Homie Hector back at it again. Alright, so today we're working on this 2004 Honda CRV.
Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump
And the customer's complaint is that he has an intermittent long crank or no start issue. So he'll crank it and the car will just keep cranking and cranking and cranking and
cranking and it won't start. And then he lets go of the key and then he goes for it again and the car starts. That's one.
He says he noticed that his gas mileage started going down. His mpg, his miles per gallon started going down. And he believes he has a fuel pump issue. Sometimes he says he's driving and then he feels like the truck is struggling to drive.
Get The Whole Assembly, Not Just The Pump
So he got me this Delphi fuel pump. Now this is a complete assembly and this is something I recommend to everybody. If you gotta change your fuel pump, don't just get the pump itself. The
pump itself is this piece that goes in here. Just a pump. The whole assembly - it's gonna be a little bit more expensive but it's gonna be better for you and it's gonna be better for your car.
So the customer wants to go ahead and do the fuel pump. And I'm just gonna walk you guys through how to throw this fill pump on this 2004 Honda CRV. So let's get to it.
How To Replace The Fuel Pump Assemply - Step By Step
Alright, on some cars you're gonna have to take the seat up. On this one you can just simply fold the seats forward. You have access to the carpet. Now we're gonna have to remove the carpet. It's on this side though. I think the fuel pump is on the other side because the fuel
filler neck is on the driver's side. So I think that the fuel pump module is gonna be on that side. So let me go ahead and put that seat down for you. Pull this string right here move forward.
Now let me just start yanking up. Yeah, see here it is. I don't know if you can see this on camera but the cover is right here. There's also a wiring harness which goes to the fuel pump. So let me see if I can find something to hold this carpet up and this'll allow us to change this pump.
This is one of the easiest pumps you can do. Now the way honda designed it that's one of the best ways you can do it. You're gonna have to drop the tank. Simply move the seat out of the way and get to the pump. All right got the electrical connector disconnected and on this one you just got a sweep. Squeeze the white clips and pull the line out of the way and now we're ready
to change the pump.
All right so I found a little vacuum cap or a little rubber cap. I don't know where it came from but I'm using that to plug up the pump. I don't know why it's leaking out but that's gonna hold the fuel from coming out. It has this lock ring and there's a special tool for it which I forgot at work. What I'm gonna use is this flat head screwdriver and I'm just gonna hit it right here. Hopefully it loosens it up for me and uh it'll make it easy for you take off. it's moving, that's a good sign. Now you don't want to keep hitting in the same spot because this is plastic and you might break it. Go to a different spot and hit it over here. It's gonna get to a point where you can actually do this by hand and that's not the point right now so we keep hitting. Yeah there it is.
So get the ring out of there. This is what you're taking off. And then you can just simply pull the
pump up. That was a tight fit.
Now you're gonna have to fight with it a little bit because the fuel pump level chingadera is actually sideways. This is sort of floating, just like on your toilet. All right, so make sure that's there and if you got any gas try to drop it back in this tank. If not, put it on your container.
So there it is guys - that's the fuel pump that came out and you can see here I, don't know if you can see... focus…. But right here it says Honda. So this right here is an original pump with over
200,000 miles in it. I think it's a good idea to change it. Customer wants it so you gotta give them what they want.
Alright let's take a look at the new fuel pump. So this is the new fuel pump right here. One of the things I forgot to mention was to always double check your part before you take the old one out. So let me go ahead and open this. We're gonna air it I mean on top of the pump there's only the electrical connector and fuel pump line. So we have those- comes with a new o-ring instructions - nobody ever reads these. So it looks a little bit different. Let me do the side-by-side comparison. So here's the old pump and here's a new pump. They look kind of similar the only thing is this one's aftermarket. So I do see where they vary. It's a little bit shorter but it shouldn't be a problem. What you want to make sure here is that the connector is the same. Make sure that this line is the same. And here's one thing I don't like already, it does not come with a new clip. They should put a new clip because what if I break that the float? It comes with a new float. So we're gonna put that on there.
Now this float it just goes on this little lever here. Sends a signal over to your dash and it tells
you how much gas, So with this lever you're just gonna have the little chingadera. You just put it in here. There's a little hole or it's gonna go in and you don't want this floating the wrong way. So I was like this till it snaps in there. There's these little clips.
Let's go drop this bad boy in. Actually, you always want to put a new seal in there. You don't want this guy to come back with a check engine light and has evap go it with a P0455 or a P0405 something because you didn't put the brand new o-ring in there. You have it, you have some fuel vapors escaping from the gas tank which honestly wouldn't be quite bad because you didn't have to drop the tank. So you'll just have to do the job again and I hate comebacks. I hate seeing the cars back because I hate it.
So here this is on top like that. Okay you wanna make sure it seals properly all the way around. So you can see that just make sure it's sealed all the way up when you push it down in there. Now you want to make sure you got this in the right direction so that this faces the fueling.
First thing you want to guide in is this little lever. You want to guide it in and make sure you don't bend it. Then you can drop the pump in.
See if you look at the feed line, it is facing the same way as this. Now one thing I'm forgetting is to put the clip back over here. So I got to take it off the old one and put it on the new one. Here's
the clip this just slides in here and it clips over.
Then make sure this line is on. We’re gonna have to push down and make sure you don't pinch this gasket, the seal as you push down.
You gotta install the lock ring and just go ahead and feel all the way around make sure
that this is going in evenly. You don't want to leave half of a gasket out and then have this guy come back for a check engine light. Make sure you have your lock ring at hand. Drop it in there while keeping pressure down on the pump and start turning it once you start turning it and it grabs on you're pretty much almost done. Because once you start turning it the pressure of the
lock ring that's going to actually push down a little more on the pump and it's gonna lock it in place. Feels like it's Kevin fixing the fuel pump. This is just gonna be getting the lock ring on and you can actually feel around it and you can feel the threads on underneath the lock ring. And this... okay it's grabbing. So just keep hammering until it stops moving.
Most important thing is to just have this lined up with this line and make sure that it actually
grabs on there. I think it should not be a problem. There it is that's the most important thing. Now I can just keep going till it locks and then I just put everything back together.
I don't think that's going anywhere. The last thing you want is for this guy to be driving and for the fuel to come out of its place. You know start leaking gas everywhere.
So from here, let's put this connector back. Alright it's in there and it's not going anywhere. It's actually locked into place. Now just everything is just backwards. Guys it's common sense.
I just wanted to show you guys this quick fuel pump. You guys got a 2004 or something along the lines. 2003... I think a lot of these Honda series are pretty much similar. I don't know if the new model changes at all. It's pretty straight forward.
I just wanted to show you guys the location where the pump is located and other basic stuff on how to change it. Pump is done and from here it's just dropping everything back into place. You wanna make sure you pop it back in the right place. Come around the other side - make sure the carpet is done where it's supposed to be. All right let's have a look.
First thing you wanna do is just turn the key on. You want to prime the fuel pump. I can
actually hear it running. I think the trigger is started - let’s see if it starts o
So there it is homies, 2004 Honda CRV. This is the four-wheel drive but it doesn't matter. 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 - I think they're all the same. You lift up the seat, your pump is there. The only struggle the only thing you're gonna struggle with is probably the lock ring because you have
to push down with the pump without cracking it. That's probably gonna be the hardest part.
But other than that is a straightforward job. I'll see you guys on the next video.
About The Creator
Video content generously provided by Homie Hektor and was re-published with permission. Check out his other helpful tips and tricks on his YouTube channel and other social media sites!
Due to factors beyond the control of Motivx Tools, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or blog post. Use this information at your own risk. We recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond our control , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video or blog post is the sole responsibility of the user and not Motivx Tools.
It would be good to mention why it is recommended to replace the the entire module as opposed to just the pump, for one you are going to be pulling the module out already so labor wise you are virtually doing the same labor, as a matter of fact, there is even more labor involved in replacing just the pump as you will need to remove the pump from the module then replace which will also require you to replace the strainer or “fuel sock” at an additional cost. Second replacing the module will also yield additional benefits such as replacing the fuel sender or “sending unit” and on most vehicles the fuel tank pressure sensor at the same time. Typically i would also recommend replacing the in line fuel filter to prevent any debree caused by a deteriorating fuel pump to circulate through the system.
January 31, 2020
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